Before we get started describing today’s ride – the Queen Stage – I need to describe the horror of our stay last night. The setting was beautiful, we had three cabins in the Big Sur Lodge – each slept four people. The problem was that there were thirteen of us. No worries, two would have to share one of the queen size beds. It fell upon Carter and I for this distinction. This would normally not be a problem were it not for Carters instance on taking his side of the bed, as well as most of mine – all this while snoring like bear in hibernation. Come morning we both jumped out of bed – “Those aren’t pillows”, “How about those Bears”.
Unlike yesterday, today’s stage was smooth sailing – at least for most, but more on that later.
The first and most important point of the day is that we are all in agreement – there is nowhere more beautiful that the Central California Coastline. Rather than my usual inane banter, I am going to try and describe – at least somewhat, our impressions.
Right out of the Lodge in Big Sur, we climbed a two-mile peak that looked out over the Pacific Ocean, encompassing the rough, dramatic rocks below. This was really the first part of the ride that rolled along the shore, and was well worth the wait. Though we rolled into a fairly dense fog bank by the top of the second climb, it still remained a series of postcard like views. The ride, at about the 60-mile point, brought us away from the coast for a brief run through the farmlands adjacent to Hearst Castle. A little tail wind kept the speed high as we returned to the coast – this included a mile of sandy beach that was the local Motel Six for the California Sea lion population.
The route finished with a roll through downtown San Luis Obispo and a very tough final run into Pismo Beach – this time with the winds once again working against us.
But enough of that; now the real stories.
First off, today marked the first causality of the day. Relax, it wasn’t one of us. Nope, this was a table of innocent bystanders attempting to enjoy their breakfast at the Ragged Point Inn. It seems that Carter has been experiencing some gastrointestinal issues for the past two days; no amount of healing from our resident Doctors. Curt and Wayne have been able to cure him. But game to the last he endeavored to persevere, right up to the aforementioned lodge.
While Colin stepped in to order a couple of Lattes’, Carter developed an overwhelming urge and rushed to the nearest bushes – yep, you guessed it, right outside the restaurant window. So caught up in the moment, he failed to notice the Norman Rockwell scene that he was invading. Mom screamed, dad tried in vain to cover little Timmy and Mary’s eyes - and as for poor Aunt, Mille, why she nearly passed out. Colin, looking over to see what the fuss was about managed to catch the whole gruesome event. Without missing a beat, he calmly turned back to the barista, “ah, better make that just one”. In the end, just to remind him of the site, Colin bought a miniature coffee mug, “thanks for stopping at the Ragged Point Inn”. One things for certain, biscuits and gravy will never be the same.
By the 92 mile point the day was getting long; Bob and Wayne rolled up to the van, filled their water bottles, got more food and made preparations to get back on the road. Meanwhile, Curt, who had been chasing for miles, finally reached the van – just as the others were ready to leave. Not wanting to miss the opportunity of sitting on their wheels for the remainder of the ride, he set a new record for rest stops. In less than ten seconds he managed to inhale half his weight in Sport Beans and Cliff Shots. As the chocolate flavor crossed his palette he looked up at the others, their mouths agape in the sheer awe of his feat – “this is really good”, he proclaimed.
Not to be outdone in the rest stop food front, Colin, Steve, and John decided that Taco Bell was just the ticket for completion. Although there appears to be some debate as to just how many of them had bean burritos on the brain. The one point that can be agreed upon is that Colin spied the purple/orange bell gleaming in the distance and decided to Make a Run for the Border; Steve thought this sounded like a great idea and turned to John,
“Do you want a burrito”, he yelled.
Now here’s where the disagreement begins – Steve says he heard
“I’m going to get some Gatorade”
To which he yelled back, “Great, grab me one also”
Colin and Steve stepped up to the counter, where Colin ordered three – he didn’t know if he wanted one or two, and in his depleted state that made three. Steve ordered one for himself.
Upon returning to the van, John quickly realized that he’d been dissed.
“What’s this, I get you a Gatorade and you bring me nothing!”
“You didn’t ask for one”, Steve replied.
“I didn’t think I needed to”, he stammered.
It was at this point that Dennis, looking over at this little domestic scene, “now how long have you two been married?” he queried.
I left out a major event that occurred during yesterday’s ride. Ron St. John, riding his fifteen year old bike – with the fifteen year old wheels - broke a spoke with half the ride to go. He rolled on, the rear wheel bouncing from one side of the frame to another. Now, this alone would be worthy of a giant pat on the back, but today put him in a league of his own.
If I wasn’t clear in regards to today’s difficulty, this was the hardest and longest ride of the day. Made even worse with only fifteen of his sixteen ancient spokes still attached to his rim. Coming off the first major climb, just outside of the wide spot in the road known as Lucia, he rolled up to Dennis and Brian in the van. They slowed to his speed to make sure that everything was holding together. Ron grabbed hold of the passenger window frame and indicated that a free tow up the mountain would be a good idea. Dennis, in a dismissive wave of his hand motioned him away, “we have to go, the lead is miles up the road”, he told him.
“I’m ok, just take me up the climb”, Ron replied.
This track continued for a few more rotations, Dennis telling him to let go as he continued to increase the speed; Ron insisting that a free tow was the order of the day.
All this occurred with Colin a hundred meters or so up the road.
Finally, realizing that his stairway to heaven was stopping long before the pearly gates, he pointed up toward Colin.
“Fine, just take me past the skinny guy and I’ll be alright”, he demanded.
The final words as he watched Colin pass him by – “I let go too early”.
Now, with what was to come, hind site would lead us to believe that a free tow up the side of a mountain was not so unfair in the end.
With a stubborn streak that is rivaled only by his sharp sense of humor he not only made the entire ride, but was forced to stop in two cities along the way in an attempt to fix his wheel. Arriving hours after the rest of us had showered and ate our weight in fried delight he rolled in. Maybe the happiest one of us all.
The Queen Stage is behind us, two more days of the dream ride to go. Maybe the best part of all, tonight everyone gets their own bed.
Big Sur to Pismo Beach
118 miles
6230 feet of climbing
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